Luxury and wildlife protection at the Mhondoro Safari Lodge & Villa

We were welcomed with ice-cold drinks at Welgevonden reception by intrepid ranger Ivan Ueckermann, who, for three days would give us insights and information that varied from hard statistics to tales of African folklore. This malaria-free 35,000-hectare reserve in the Waterberg, less than a three-hour drive from Lanseria Airport, is home to the luxury Mhondoro Safari Lodge & Villa.

Image by Jenny Handley

As we raised a glass, the five girls declared that ‘The Big Five’ had truly arrived!

During the scenic drive to the luxury lodge we stopped to witness a hippo mom and dad paying good attention to their three-month-old baby on the banks of the dam glistening in midday sun. We saw a succession of babies – giraffe, zebra and my favourite character of the bush, the warthog.

Of the 61 sites, of which 12 are commercial lodges, Mhondoro sits proud in terms of uniqueness – the only lodge to have a 65-metre viewing tunnel that allows guests to get up close and personal with game. An elephant sauntering on the sidelines of the water was oblivious to us nearby.

Our evening game drives gave us insight into the smaller delights of the bush like chameleon and red rock rabbits, to larger species like hyenas basking in the setting sun near their cubs. Ivan, extremely knowledgeable and a natural raconteur, was the victim of much lighthearted banter.

An elegant blend of all things Africa

I got the long straw when it came to room allocation, probably as the most senior of the group, and as I settled into my master suite, I admired views of the water hole from my desk, lounge, king-size four poster bed and even my outdoor shower which enjoyed a spectacular view of the waterhole, one that a baboon took advantage of whilst I was there.

The décor, an elegant blend of African and European style, is testament to the talents of Myriam Vogel. Dutch nationals, owners Frank and Myriam Vogel have a true passion for Africa.

Meals were not of the usual bush fare – lunch included the lightest salmon fish cakes I have ever devoured. The first dinner was a sumptuous affair in the intimacy of the villa, where we could watch chef Zinobia Martin as she effortlessly produced a succession of beautifully plated dishes from crab with saffron ice cream to crocodile carpaccio, beetroot gnocchi to a light and delicate rhubarb cheesecake. Her experience from Babylonstoren and the fact that her favourite ingredients come from the garden just metres away, were evident.

“My biggest challenge is that here, we do not have so many ingredients. I adjust the menu to the garden and change it every four days. Every day is a new challenge. Inspiration not from books or other chefs, but from the heart,” she told me, after proudly sharing the news that her neighbour in hometown Paarl is the new Miss South Africa! After fine dining, the large oval tub beckoned this water-wise Capetonian, to unwind after a perfect day in a villa where luxury knows no bounds.

On our early morning game drive, we were treated to the sight of a majestic lion, with the sun rising behind him and the moon settling on the other side of the roar behind two lionesses in the veld. As he roared I was reminded of how incredibly lucky I am to live in Africa. It was a real ah-ha moment.

Image by Jenny Handley

Our eyes spotted the most exquisite lily pond, and we saw chef Zinobia and butler Elias cheerfully preparing our pre-breakfast pancakes. Whilst I scoffed mine, filled with Nutella and strawberries, coffee in hand, I relished the early morning sounds of the bush.

Bush trekking and protection programmes

Breakfast on the deck overlooking the waterhole, a miraculous knot-clearing massage with Muriel in the spa with an outdoor deck and bath, and I was truly relaxed. The more adventurous two of our five followed Ivan into the bush for a walk in which he shared more of his knowledge of wild fauna and flora, while three of us simply settled into enjoying our surroundings before a light lunch with Jessica Oosthuyse.

This passionate young woman is coordinating a wildlife protection programme, funded by IBM, MTN and Wageningen University in the Netherlands, to design an improved anti-poaching system. She has been working on it for six months with renowned ecologist Herbert Prince, from the Netherlands. They are studying animal behaviour and how humans alert and affect animals when they detect danger, to improve poacher detection.

Currently 134 species that include eland, impala, zebra and wildebeest are collared with sensors designed by IBM that monitor speed and GPS. The reserve, proud of and extremely protective of its rhino population, is impressively robust and pro-active in poacher control. In the last decade rhino poaching in South Africa has increased drastically. Rhino horn is believed by some Asian countries to hold medicinal properties, but in fact they are merely keratin.

Dinner in the boma was delayed by a herd of elephants who decided to have their sundowners drinking out of the salt pool on the deck. We witnessed them drinking the salt water, with the baby elephants trying valiantly to stretch their trunks to do the same as the older herd members. We settled into the joy of dining outdoors on traditional potjieskos with delicious accompaniments, before the staff sang and danced to entertain us under the stars with glowing embers of the fire as a backdrop.

We congregated for coffee in the viewing tunnel, to be joined by a warthog. Sous chef Vusi proudly gave us a garden tour before a quick breakfast and farewells before getting into the game vehicle for the last time with Ivan. He was determined to trick us one last time, so when we spotted a giraffe on the air strip, he told us she was Susan, the only giraffe named in the reserve. She has a growth on her chest that prevents her lying down, so rangers have built a long pole with a harness to hold her head so that she can sleep upright.

We were so impressed until we realised that it was a wind sock we were looking at! The last of many laughs was on us. It was time for ‘The Big Five’ to scatter, home bound, with indelible memories of a special time in a special place.