Fashion & Homeware News South Africa

More job losses in garment industry spark calls for trade blocks

A further 800 garment makers from Seardel may soon be retrenched because the company says it cannot compete with cheap imports, the erosion of the industry due to unscrupulous business operations that under invoice and bring in illegal apparel as well as its inability to produce due to the technical complexity of bra manufacturing.
More job losses in garment industry spark calls for trade blocks

The consequence is that 4000 people could be affected directly and indirectly if 800 people who are probably mostly women find themselves without a job. Many of these garments workers are possibly the single breadwinners and have immediate and extended family dependents. Their future is bleak.

Are we just going to allow the disintegration of an entire industry sector and lay the blame on imports, our inability to compete in the global market, a none-effective workforce and the many other reasons attributed to the inefficiency and inability of the apparel industry to become a viable economic contributor?

Is it not time that government, the union and the industry take drastic actions and once again institute restrictions on imports of finished garments? The argument against such policy is that it will increase the retail price of clothing and this will have an adverse affect for the poor.

I agree, clothing prices may increase but we must excavate and unpack the meaning of "the poor" and define this sector as well as understand their buying behaviours. Where do "the poor" buy their clothing and what type of clothing do they buy?

There is so much potential for employment and small business development in our apparel sector that we must put aside rhetoric and paper policy development to find solutions to revitalize this sector. The South African Clothing and Textile Workers Union's constituency is haemorrhaging, yet, they make it extremely difficult for companies to operate. The union must move beyond their 1980s mode of operation and become creative in their communication and interaction not only with industry but also with the South African consumer.

After all, the consumer needs to be educated and informed about the need to support local made clothing. There is required an effort of intellectual and emotional activism by industry, government, the union and the retailers on ground level in the shopping malls and with the media in their engagement with South Africans to tell of the importance these industries have to the welfare of South Africa and why the support of South Africans is paramount.

On the other-hand, the clothing manufacturers bemoan the lack of entry of skilled workers or the poor skills already existing in the sector as one of the reasons the sector cannot compete on a global scale or meet the requirements demanded by the retail sector. Each old hand that retires or leaves the industry results in a loss of knowledge and skills. Considering the current state the industry is in no person would want to enter a sector that looks like it is on the brink of total collapse and furthermore, no-one wants to be condemned to a life behind a sewing machine. It is the duty of the industry, the union and the clothing SETA to engage with our youth and communicate the career growth and skills development opportunities this sector has to offer and navigate the negative perceptions that is equated to a career in clothing manufacturing.

Every young person I have engaged with that has an interest in clothing wants to be a fashion designer because it is portrayed as a career of glamour. However, what they do not realize is that without a viable clothing and textile-manufacturing sector there will be no local fashion industry.

My resources inform me that further retrenchments in the sector is imminent and that that there may be a clamp down on unregistered clothing companies that will lead to further closures and job losses. Our clothing, textile and fashion sector as a collective with all public and private stakeholders must begin vigorous public engagement to diminish the erosion of these industries and the subsequent human suffering that will follow.

About Renato Palmi

Director of The ReDress Consultancy - South Africa, Renato Palmi is a researcher and economist in the apparel and fashion sector. He is also the author of the book Inside Out, which reviews the role of fashion in the South African apparel industry. He is Linea's Marketing and Project Director. View the ReDress Consultancy blogspot here: www.redressconsultancy.blogspot.com
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