Savouring Giorgio Nava's new Italian Experience at 95 at Parks

Chef Giorgio Nava on camera. All images supplied.

Chef Giorgio Nava, known for north Italian restaurant perfection in the Cape CBD, has been in SA for 19 years now yet is still strongly Italian-accented in the most endearing way. I know this because Nava did the rounds, shaking hands and explaining the Italian Experience menu for the afternoon, which will be switched up every three weeks. Formerly the Constantia branch of Nava’s Carne, 95 at Parks offers all the Italian success of his 95 Keerom offering in the CBD and is most definitely another restauranting win, from the less-meat more-pasta menu to the tasteful background sounds to the warm, intimate country house interior with an inviting foresty palette.

Pre-starters, we switched our Prosecco flutes to the soft Steenberg Semillon 2016 – one of my favourites – while sampling the fresh baked breads.

Summery flights of fancy at Catharina's

Leigh Andrews  11 Jan 2017

We then hauled out our smartphones to snap pics of the first course: Deconstructed-yet-still-substantial l' Insalata Caprese, comprising burrata mozzarella (just the thing for those nostalgic over Nava’s now-just-a-memory Mozzarella Bar on Kloof Street) and a salad of tomatoes, anchovies (missing from mine, thankfully), as well as capers, olives and fresh basil, with those breads proving perfect for mopping up the very last bits of insalata, especially when dressed with the extra virgin olive oil – Nava’s favourite ‘sauce’ and balsamic vinegar in easy reach on the table.

All images supplied.

All images supplied.

All images supplied.

The second course on the day was also Instagram-worthy il Polpo alla Griglia, or grilled octopus on mash – the fish eaters raved about the octopus, while my replacement orecchiette with veal came in a perfectly beany broth that filled each small pasta 'ear'.

For thirds, we had a choice of raviolis – i ravioli Di Agnello al Burro e Salvia, ravioli filled with slow-baked Karoo lamb shoulder (all the more authentic as Nava owns his own farm in Nieu-Bethesda, stocked with Dorper lamb, game, and cattle with both Italian Romagnola and SA Nguni and Afrikaner heritage, topped with sage butter and Parmesan cheese, or i ravioli di Zucca – a comforting butternut-and-ricotta blend ravioli, also topped with sage butter and Parmesan. The rich ruby Steenberg 2015 Nebbiolo was ideal with these meaty meals, served on beautiful marbled plates with the real-deal shredded (not powdered) Parmesan, obviously.

All images supplied.

All images supplied.

All images supplied.

All images supplied.

By the time the fourth course came around you’d expect us to be groaning and reluctant to sample, but as it was i gnocchi al ragu di Manzo, potato gnocchi with beef ragu and we were eating smaller portions assaggio style, we sat back, eyes gleaming with expectation. As a gnocchi-lover, this is the course I was most excited for and boy, does Nava's version deliver! Soft, hot pillows of deliciousness that melted into the gravy and had most wishing for bigger portions.

The fifth course was yet another choice, luckily again an easy one for me as the first option was la zuppa di Cozze alla marinara, yes steamed mussels in tomato, white wine and fresh herbs, with most of the afternoon’s guests opting for l'Osso Bucco a la Milanese, like me– tender veal shanks slow-cooked in a similar tomato, carrot, celery, onion and herbs soup just as the original Italian recipes from 600 years ago dictate.

@SteenbergWines Nebbiolo and marrow - magical lunch followed by vanilla ice-cream and then a cappuccino. #95atParks pic.twitter.com/7ZBJFKd1pJ

— Tshepang Molisana (@TshepiMolisana) August 4, 2017

Mille grazie, Giorgio!

*Leigh Andrews was a guest of 95 at Parks. The six-course Italian Experience tasting menu at 95 at Parks is R330 per person, with an a la carte menu option. 95 at Parks is situated at 114 Constantia Main Road and is open for lunch and dinner from Tuesdays to Saturdays, and Sunday lunch, with secure parking on the premises. Call +2721 761 0247 or email moc.moreek59@skrap to make your booking.