Diversity matters in skincare because there is power in representation. There is value in developing products for all skin tones, which is notably true for the skincare industry.
Genasha Naidoo, managing director at Beiersdorf Southern Africa. Image supplied
It is not just about developing products but rather about developing products that accommodate demographics’ unique skin requirements.
From environmental effects to skin conditions, skincare innovation is about catering to consumers’ personal needs above all else.
The overlooked spectrum of skin in skincare
The global skincare industry holds much power when it comes to who is visible and who is not. In an industry that has historically prioritised lighter skin, global skincare research and testing has actively excluded a large portion of the population.
Research has shown that the more melanin a person has in their skin, the more prone they are to developing hyperpigmentation or dark spots after an acne breakout.
According to Versed Skin, hyperpigmentation is the leading concern for melanin-rich individuals, with 60-80% in the US experiencing some form of a pigmentation disorder. Yet, global beauty products are mostly focused on anti-ageing, acne, and skin sensitivity catering to limited demographics.
According to the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, only 4% of dermatology skincare research trials focused on skin conditions that are more likely to affect people of colour, including conditions like hyperpigmentation and keloids.
This skincare gap is significantly concerning because solutions for more melanin-rich skin are overlooked and neglected, even though that black consumers in the US make up 11.1% of the total beauty spending market.
This lack of visibility means many consumers are isolated and underrepresented in the overall beauty market, leaving room for further dissatisfaction.
Skin diversity is not an idea – it’s a necessity
Skincare representation needs to be present beyond advertisements and marketing, taking place behind the scenes as well. By investing in a variety of research scientists, brands are not just filling quotas, but revolutionising how products are conceptualised and developed.
In a country like South Africa where over 90% of the population is melanin-rich, it is crucial that skincare brands offer products that are backed by research that drives both efficacy and equity. South Africa is a hub of cultural practices, diverse skin types, and unique environmental conditions.
Recognising this, companies like Beiersdorf are actively engaging with South African communities to co-create skin solutions that are both effective and culturally relevant.
This approach moves beyond traditional Research and Development (R&D) by focusing on inclusive practices that value local knowledge and lived experience, thus transforming global standards of skincare treatment.
The Nivea Radiant & Beauty range of products is an example of R&D that aims to directly address the needs of skin of colour.
With Glow and Advanced Care products specifically designed for melanin-rich skin and that reduce the appearance of dark marks and stretchmarks, Radiant & Beauty exemplifies how products can be contextualised to the environments and communities they are catering to.
With the African climate characterised by more heat, humidity and sun, product performance needs to accommodate local conditions, such as by infusing more SPF protection and hydration qualities to fully nurture and preserve the skin.
Innovation that leads to inclusion
Pushing the frontiers in skin science requires reinventing the equation of skincare for all people, not just a select few. To achieve the best results, skincare brands and industry leaders need to combine their expertise and their use of technologies with external knowledge.
They achieve this by collaborating not just with researchers, suppliers, institutes and scientists, but also with the groups and communities that use their products and make up a significant percentage of their market.
Inclusion is more than just producing differing options for users; it's about investing in local voices and communities in every step of the production process.
Brands need to commit to collaborating with local researchers and dermatologists, ensuring that innovation reflects lived realities and puts local relevance and long-term trust at the centre of skincare modernisation.
Purpose-driven partnerships should be the foundation of brand work to make consumers feel seen, heard and valued. By integrating South African expertise and experiences, Beiersdorf is purposeful in setting a new precedent for inclusive skincare advancement.
This multi-layered approach not only leads to better products but also fosters trust and relevance within the communities that industry leaders serve, approaching inclusion as more than just a box to check, but rather, a core value that directs meaningful change.
