Fit for a king (or a president)

Hotel GM Mary McGinn has a Miss Marple attention to detail and calls each guest every evening to pre-empt and resolve any niggles before they become issues. Her soft voice and "mine host" manner hide an iron fist that is evident in her team's snap-to manner. Ms M is in the house and everyone's on their toes.

Although immaculate and elegantly restored, this five-star boutique hotel in Saxonwold's 1930's post office building is yet to blossom fully. In fact, its fate is intricately linked to the successful completion of the Gautrain's Rosebank precinct. At the moment with the rubble around the area, complicated one-way roads and tremors from underground excavations, it's a wonder they're doing any business at all.

'Welcome, Mr President'

Another wonder is that people select to stay at the nearby Hyatt when they could stay at The Monarch at a similar price point for what I reckon are much better amenities. The Monarch's standard rooms are quoted at R1600 while the very fabulous Coronation suites with large sitting area and TV, dining table, work desk, guest loo and separate bedroom start at R3600. I like it that most Coronation suites have direct access from the private guest's parking.

The Presidential Suite also has private direct access, and has actually had a president in it. During the World Cup, Ghana's president stayed at The Monarch. In addition to a gorgeous grand piano there is also a smart dining room for 10 guests and the usual finery associated with such spaces. As expected, there is private access through the kitchen for the butler and a reception area for the security detail.

A feast for the inner you...

The food at The Monarch is sensational and inspired by the Cuisine Vitale movement of healthier and lighter cuisine. Although costly, (mains range from R80 to R180 while desserts from R40 to R90 for cheese), we were delighted at every turn. We also liked their two 10-seater totally private dining areas (one for smokers) as a good place to combine a meeting with a meal.

The seven-course tasting menu changes every month and is served from R650 per person. My butter-poached lobster tail with quail egg and smoked tomato sauce is from the Tasting Menu and was sublime as was the lamb loin on an exquisite fine-dice ratatouille with parsnips and a potato cake.

The zucchini and tomato tart with goat's cheese and olives as well as the mushroom risotto with lemon confit and parmesan crisps would make a delicious lunch.

... And a feast for the eyes

The most notable thing about The Monarch Hotel is the exceptional art collection. Every room has unique pieces. Although the furniture is newly manufactured, it is all well made in the English and French period style.

Ms McGinn has already recognised the need for double-glazing on Oxford Road-facing rooms and is compiling a catalogue of the art works that most people ask for when they see the collection, even those pieces limited to the public areas.

In summer, afternoon tea will be served in the courtyard. Despite the genteel appeal of the hotel, the smoking lounge already has a Hotel Costes vibe about it. I'm told a series of Monarch soundtracks might be available to purchase soon.

Go to www.monarchhotels.co.za or call +27 (0) 11 3412000 for more information.