As one with nature, and Exeter

Well spotted.

There's a weir to regulate the flow of the Sand River and &Beyond's Exeter River Lodge leans over towards it like the belly of a pregnant impala. As sun sets it casts a golden yellow light so magical, so romantic it feels like I'm in the Amarula advert. Leaves dance on the wind currents before falling to the grass being nibbled on by the Impala - I can count nine of them without craning my neck.

The Jackalberry tree is fulsome and green while much else in the western sector of the Sabi Sand Reserve is dry in August. Wait, a rare stork has just flown past like a hang glider.

Even the midges begin to look attractive

I so want to stop myself from this hackneyed prose but the bush insidiously eats away cynicism. There vervet monkey's back hairs catch the setting rays and look as though they've been plugged in. Perhaps that's what's happened. After 10 days in the bush in the greater Kruger National Park area I feel plugged in to a different sort of mains. Even the pesky midges take on a golden hue, as they reflect last light.

You can watch Impala grazing outside your window.

The others have gone on the game drive - that two by three hour bump-and-grind into the bush. I've been popping muscle relaxant almost on a daily basis to ease the spasm caused by my pelvic girdle being splayed while simultaneously having my spine jack-hammered.

My Bloody Mary has arrived and staff tend the log fire next to which I'm lounging.

I'm nudged awake, drooling Bloody Mary. He suggests I come with him to the entrance to wait for the others as they return from game drive. I think he's nuts. Why would I want to wait outside rather than in front of the fire? He coaxes me with a degree of authority I haven't yet experienced on this trip. I comply.

The drums of Africa

As I walk towards the entrance I can hear the drum beat and as the dust from the returning vehicles settles I can make out figures dancing. The light is low. It seems as if everyone on River Lodge's staff is in traditional dress, dancing. Then they sing.

A wealth of wildlife.

The next hour is a blur. It was as if someone big was sitting on my chest. I couldn't inhale. I knew that if I exhaled what was in my lungs that I'd sob out loud.

It wasn't that the choir was so especially musical or that dancing particularly skilfully choreographed. It wasn't art. It was life. Even though I knew this was done for our benefit as guests, it didn't take an iota away from the way it felt. On my last night in the African bush, Africa entered my heart through my ears and eyes.

For more information on &Beyond Exeter River Lodge, Sabi Sand Reserve, call +27 (0) 11 809 4300 or go to www.andbeyondafrica.com.