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Majeka House and the French connection

Karine Dequeker-van der Merwe, in a brightly-coloured silky caftan, wafts around Majeka House the night we dine there. Lise Manley, co-host for the evening says "you look like a butterfly". She does.
Chef Anri Diener: loves the ‘traditional French cooking style’.
Chef Anri Diener: loves the ‘traditional French cooking style’.

Karine is a big woman, in stature and in heart, and I'm immediately smitten, by her French accent from life in West Africa and her joie de vivre. She met her husband and partner Lloyd van der Merwe at hotel school and met Ian and Lise in the hotel industry (both are former hoteliers).

I especially enjoy dealing with the Manley's who subscribe to the greet-and-treat philosophy when it comes to media relations (rather than the harangue-and-harass sort where one is emailed incessantly to ask when the story will be "in".) However, an event to best showcase the chef's prowess is often self-sabotaged when there are more than eight people to eat. Most restaurant tables are two's or four's which gives the kitchen plenty room to cope. I think it an unnecessary challenge for a chef, irrespective how competent, to serve 12 different dishes to a group of media/foodies simultaneously.

Dishes are authentic

Majeka House and the French connection

Chef Anri Diener is obviously skilled (and after working for five years at Tokara Restaurant with Etienne Bonthuys she has brought his passion for European cuisine and his combining meat and seafood into her kitchen. "I personally love the traditional French cooking style," says Anri in the media hand-out, "and this is definitely reflected in the menu.

Dishes are authentic because they are prepared in the old way, using the best local produce. So the menu also closely reflects the food of the Western Cape - fine seasonal fruit and vegetables, and fresh seafood." That's close to my heart too so we looked forward to dinner with gusto.

Majeka House and the French connection

Although I ordered the baby candy beets, I was served the chicken liver parfait with its beautiful port jelly and delicate avo and fennel mousse. The quail (pan fried with a crayfish and saffron sauce and fresh gooseberries) was disappointing to eat with hardly a hint of seafood flavours. The kingklip, on the other hand, was superior to kingklip served elsewhere. Not only was it perfectly cooked but it was also accompanied with a moreish mussel and mushroom sauce and the most exquisite tiny gnocchi. The pear crumble with vanilla sauce to end was lovely.

Not a budget issue, but...

There's a big fireplace and a tortoise-shell grand piano with eyes-go-fuzzy wallpaper and chandeliers in the restaurant. The room works well as an elegant restaurant and also by day for breakfasts - which are extremely good.

At R400 for the tasting menu paired with wines it isn't at a budget option but then this isn't a budget hotel. They do have a compelling winter special though:

Rosti and smoked salmon for breakfast.
Rosti and smoked salmon for breakfast.

R2450 per person sharing for two nights' accommodation in a Premier Room, breakfast each morning, one lunch or dinner for two people at Bodega on Dornier Wine Estate or Taste Restaurant (valued at R200 per person), one three-course dinner for two in Majeka House Restaurant, a bottle of Dalla Cia wine (the chardonnay is good) of your choice to enjoy with dinner as well as a back, neck, shoulder and foot massage treatment for each person at the smart spa. Valid until September 30.

Majeka House is located at 26-32 Houtkapper Street, Paradyskloof, Stellenbosch.

For reservations or further information on Majeka House call +27 (0) 21 880 1549; email az.oc.esuohakejam@snoitavreser; or visit www.majekahouse.co.za.

About Brian Berkman: contributing editor, travel

Brian Berkman can be contacted on 083-441-8765 or email moc.namkreBnairB@nairB.
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