Tea by the sea

18 Sep 2014

Seated in the Palm Court, I was reminded of my Zululand days, drinking tea on the veranda of our farmhouse; from the familiar wicker chairs with floral cushions to the Colonial-style rattan-weave slow-turning fans. The chandeliers - purchased from The Savoy in London, excuse me - were a reminder, too, that I was actually having afternoon tea at The Oyster Box.

In the centre of the court was a carnival of a feast. The assortment of colours and varying shapes and sizes of the glass jars, some containing classic pink and white marshmallows, and others apricot-flavoured foam candy balls, added to the edible entertainment.

First up, you have pastries like vegetable curry pies and pork sausage rolls; followed by mini vegetable wraps; cocktail steak rolls; and cucumber-and-cream cheese finger sandwiches; to a silver stand of crackers, cheeses and preserves. Imagine fireworks with a bang of two decadent cakes - peppermint crisp and chocolate gateaux - and a fanciful finale of muffins and scones, loaves, flans, and bite-size treats like Lindt chocolate brownies, red velvet squares, lemon meringues and vanilla cupcakes iced in bright pink; with a stack of perfect blushing raspberry macaroons stealing the show.

A sweet surprise

We began this festival of food with a glass of sparkling wine and some sumptuous savouries, such as the traditional cucumber sandwich, that you can't not have (even if you dislike cucumber). This one had a smear of cream cheese, which is apparently an American take on the original British version.

Moving on to what it's really all about, we ordered Earl Grey, which arrived in a 'Rosebud' Maxwell Williams' teapot (with matching teacups and saucers) that had a Dilmah tag peeking out. And this was just a hint of the remarkable quality that has come to be expected at this legendary Umhlanga hotel and spa.

Surprisingly, my favourite accompaniment was the humble homemade 'toasted' marshmallow. It was delightfully light and fluffy, and coconutty and marshmallowy all at the same time. A talented little thing, that.

Having time to ponder, I found out that afternoon tea originates from the 19th century when Anna, the Duchess of Bedford thought it would be a convenient way to fill the lengthy gap between lunch and dinner, which was typically only served at 8pm. Over the years, aficionados and world-class hotels such as this have upheld its tradition, except that these days it's something you'll have for a special event or a spoil.

We thought the pianist's rendition of 'Happy Birthday' a fitting note on which to end this celebrated afternoon tea - an occasion in itself.

Tea is from 2.30pm to 5pm and booking well in advance is essential. Most guests arrive on time to get the full benefit of the afternoon. The menu changes regularly to suit seasonal availability and specialities. Costs R220 per person.

Reservations: +27 (0) 31 514 5000 or az.oc.xobretsyo@stnaruatser

The Oyster Box