Maputo gem

Everyone has a story about the Polana. In my case, my newly wed parents had holidayed there back in the hotel's heyday and I had my own wonderful memories of a long, lazy lunch on the hotel verandah after a blissful week of island-hopping about five years ago. Admittedly, that first visit was not entirely rose-tinted, for despite its magnificent architecture and incredible position, the hotel was in need of a serious overhaul. So it was with delight and much anticipation that I accepted an invitation to the recently renovated and refurbished Polana Serena Hotel in October this year.

As the doorman ushered me into the opulent lobby with cool marble underfoot, twinkling chandeliers and the whirring of ceiling fans overhead, I was relieved to see that the unmistakable old-world charm of the place had remained intact. The wood-clad bar is still pretty much as it was, although my beloved verandah has now been enclosed to create a breakfast conservatory. Thankfully, it is executed in a way that is both sensitive and complementary to the period features of the hotel and is, therefore, positive progress. And although I couldn't shake the feeling that the charm of the place had been diluted in favour of a slick uniformity that appeals to business travellers, this is obviously where the hotel's core business lies.

That said, the rooms are hugely improved, with good quality bed linen atop sumptuous four-poster beds and the original marble bathrooms updated but intact. And there is still nowhere in Maputo that beats the tranquility of the pool area after a day out amid the bustle of this city. Drinks in the bar at night are as popular as ever, and I was thrilled to discover pastéis de nata on the much improved breakfast menu the next morning, along with new additions like freshly squeezed carrot and ginger juice and smoothies.

And with a new spa, which alas I didn't get to try, and a conference centre-cum-ballroom, the hotel is poised to reclaim its former sybaritic status. Doubles from R1777. www.serenahotels.com.

Published in arrangement with National Geographic Traveller, South Africa - http://travel.nationalgeographic.com