As far as restaurant names go, theirs is a pretty innovative route to arriving at one. While "Paul Kitching" or "Paul & Katie", his partner in the business, suit the current celebrity trend of eponymously naming restaurants, this eccentric duo passionate in the way they deal with food and customers, seem to be carving their own path in the culinary firmament.
With Kitching in the kitchen
Another thing they do differently is they serve napkins to guests, beautifully pressed and rolled rather than the old-fashioned (and frankly, personal space-invading) practice of having it placed on one's lap. "The bread's soft, but there is butter," Katie O'Brien says while offering a pyramid of olive-studded bread indicating a deeper understanding of food and the way we eat today than I've experienced at a restaurant before.
As someone who now follows a very strict and particular eating plan, I was more than a little anxious about dining at a Michelin-starred restaurant with a set menu but I needn't have worried.
This is arguably one of Edinburgh, Scotland's top eateries and the only city restaurant and rooms recommended in The Michelin Guide and awarded a star rating. Last year, they were recognised as Scotland's Restaurant of the Year. You'd be right to expect a standout experience in every way - and a premium price to match - but I found the £60 dinner ticket more affordable than other fine-dining establishments, and what's more is, if you usually book yourself into five-star hotels, the rooms will over deliver when it comes to space, style and deluxe amenities. You can even eat two-courses here at lunch during the week for as little as £20.
Positioned just under Carlton Hill, 21212's location in a Grade A-listed Georgian Terrace has royal-mile exclusivity all over it. Although it rained much while we were there, the view from our bedroom over the most idyllic garden was lovely. On clear days guests in rooms 1 and 21 have views of the Firth of Forth while other rooms look over Edinburgh.
Dressed in a bright orange Columbia rain jacket and mustard trousers, about to head out to explore the city, we first met Paul Kitching on the stairs. "You look colourful" he said. "Are you our host?" I asked thinking he was perhaps a fellow guest and soon we were in the easy chats of old friends. His openness and brightness is reflected in the food, too. I found the food presentation witty but without being contrived or pretentious. I had the feeling that Paul is someone who thinks long about ingredients and which cooking technique will bring out their best. Colour too, like his comment about my outfit, is used as an additional flavour. What made the dinner especially memorable for me was that it was tailored to my high protein, low-carb, and zero sugar or alcohol diet without the slightest loss of flavour. Each mouthful was intensely flavourful but also clean and vibrant.
The menu changes each week and if you were dining there this week you might feast on "Comte Cheese, Rice Risotto" (Creamed Rice, Pinenuts, Beetroot & Potato, Courgettes, Ham & Gammon, Mustard Mayonnaise), the soup; Seabass (Spicy Scallops & Pineapple with Mixed Beans, Aubergine, Celeriac & Hazelnuts, Mussel & Yoghurt Cream, Leek & Soya Puree); cheese and, to end, Cherry, Honey Crunch Brulee (Confit Of Cherries, Cinder Toffee and Pecans, Honey Nut Hot Chocolate). Although his food will speak for itself, Paul and Katie's choice of Villeroy and Boch cutlery and crockery speaks to their extreme attention to detail and the desire to make every food and beverage moment an exceptional one.
Paul's food fits perfectly into 2013 - The Year of Natural Scotland, a tourism initiative to get people to think about Scotland as more than whisky and golf. One aspect, The Natural Larder, is totally in sync with Paul's attitude and commitment to using the best local suppliers. Scotland has a great reputation for its delicious local produce, and is gaining more and more recognition on an international scale for its respected chefs, world-class producers and the diversity of the cuisine. Following on from the Year of Food and Drink, The Natural Larder is an opportunity to further promote Scotland's food and drink offering and natural produce, as well as its high quality restaurants such as 21212.
Other Year of Natural Scotland highlights include The National Park of Loch Lomond which has 21 mountains, 22 lochs and 50 rivers easily accessible within half an hour of Glasgow. In Glentress Forest, just an hour from Edinburgh, you can walk almost endlessly without signs of civilisation. It is well-known by mountain bikers. The famous North West Coast has beaches, coastal walks as well as fishing and sailing opportunities. Golf's The Ryder Cup will be played at Gleneagles next year while in Grampain, near Aberdeen, there is a 13-castle historic trail.
Connect with Jeremy Hawkings of Connoisseurs Scotland who represents 21212 and more than 30 of the land's most superb properties at ku.oc.tocsxul@ymerej. You can book to dine and stay at 21212 by emailing ku.oc.tnaruatser21212@snoitavreser.
