It took us about four-hours from Cape Town with no stops to reach Bid Huisie, a converted prayer house with classic Cape Victorian architecture. We arrived just in time for supper at The Gallery Café. Aside from having the most glam bathroom of any restaurant I have visited, ever, the food is stupendous. We dined on duck liver pate, Karoo lamb chops, and brilliant local cheeses. To find out more about what's on offer, call +27 (0) 23 541 1197.
Try to arrive in the village when it is still light as the Swartberg Mountains take on a beautiful colour and the buildings glow like embers. In addition, streets are not well marked and finding our lodging wasn't immediately easy - so arriving while you can still see your way around makes sense.
The two-bedroomed house that is Bid Huisie a perfect getaway spot but be sure to either be travelling with family or good friends as the fanlight above the original door means that the two bedrooms are not sound proof.
There's a deep back stoep covered with timber poles, a splash pool and outside braai area. Rather than lawn, the garden is covered in clay-coloured gravel which has a Zen-like feel. Best to park in front of the house as the driveway was designed for horse and cart and not a Honda.
The house has been decorated by someone with an eye for detail and is a comfortable place to be. There's an animal skin on the floor and old trunks act as tables. There are two cane wingbacks and a couch with a farm-style table and four chairs in the kitchen/dining area.
The bathroom has a shower with good pressure, basin and loo. Bring extra loo paper. There's a washing machine in the kitchen and when we stayed the house was serviced while we were away in the village.
The village is very charming and encouraged by its own cooking school, African Relish and recent inclusion in the Kokkedoor TV programme broadcast on KykNET, there is a growing foodie culture.
Gay's Dairy produces award-winning products from her Guernsey herd while Lazy Lizard serves coffee and breakfasts worthy of a four-hour trip. I also bought farm eggs there and two in our party were seduced by the most fabulous looking apple pie.
On Saturday mornings there's a market where you will find prawn samoosas, fresh greens, knitted gloves and beanies as well as old cake tins, jaffle and pancakes. There are many must visit shops and galleries, among them The Prince Albert Country Store which is also a good spot to eat. Be sure to buy Prince Albert olives and olive oil while in the area.
We took two wonderful long drives: the first to the top of the Swartberg for a picnic and then to look down at Die Hel, the area cut off for more than 20 years. The next day we visited Meiringspoort and its many river crossings. There is an outstanding rest-stop area and information centre and the walk up to the waterfall is worthwhile. It was really cold on top of the Swartberg.
This is the kind of village that the longer you stay the more you like it. The air is clean, the skies are bright with stars, and the people we encountered were the sort of characters one hopes to meet on a weekend away. It pays to eavesdrop on conversations and insinuate yourself into local happenings In Prince Albert. Had I not been the nosy parker I am we would have missed one of the highlights of our stay: an impromptu performance by blues muso Lonesome Dave Ferguson at The Olive Branch Restaurant, which is known as a foodie hang-out with idiosyncratic opening hours. You must call ahead: +27 (0) 23 541 1821 to eat there.
For more information go to www.BidHuisie.co.za.
