The More family has owned Lion Sands in the Sabi Sands reserve near Kruger National Park since 1933. They are edging ever closer to the crown once tightly held by Singita's Ebony and Boulders lodges in the Eastern sector of Sabi Sands. They may even be the most special lodge in the Sabi Sand reserve of the eight I have visited at the pinnacle of bush luxury.
Having well qualified guides isn't simply about having someone point out the difference between a magic guarrie or a fever tree, but someone who is sufficiently knowledgeable and experienced to tune-in to the needs and interests of each individual on the game drive.
Unlike many five-star lodges which pack nine guests per game drive, Ivory Lodge limits to no more than six people per vehicle, and replaces the middle seat with trunks that contains binoculars, books on mammals and birds, a camera bean-bag to use to settle your camera, blankets and rain ponchos. This means that everyone on the open game drive vehicle has a "window" seat. A failing is that unlike Singita their rangers don't use ear-pieces and guests have to listen to the babble of rangers sharing sightings rather than to babblers and other birds themselves.
Although lodge life is regimented: 6.30am for a three-hour game drive with refreshment stop, breakfast, spa treatments, lunch, afternoon tea, three-hour evening game drive with sun-downers followed by dinner, if seen merely as a suggestion of things to do, you can create your own itinerary entirely to give yourself more time to enjoy the lusciousness of space.
Your Ivory Lodge suite is vast and designed like a farm house in an H-shape with two buildings, each with all-glass walls, overlooking the Sabi River. In the bedroom house, there's a huge bed with a mosquito net canopy. Behind the bed are two wardrobes and a large section to store luggage for those who prefer not to unpack.
Importantly for me, the toilet and the shower are fully enclosed but have large windows that open onto an entirely private courtyard. The centre piece is a massive, egg shaped bath beyond which is an enclosed courtyard and outside shower. The colour scheme is, as you'd guess, ivory and ostrich shell with black timber furniture. The look is clean-lined and contemporary. The sitting room is a separate building forming the other side of the H shape.
Your butler serves early-morning coffee and rusks from the outside into the Bulawayo hatch so that you can collect it still wearing what nature intended you to. A fully stocked maxi bar with litre-sized fine wines and spirits like Chivas and snacky things like biltong, nuts and jelly-babies, is included in the tariff.
There are couches and easy chairs in front of the log-burning fire place. The pool and outside deck with recliners is again totally private and overlooks the river. We're told the King of Sweden stayed in our suite during The World Cup.
Although the food served is plentiful and delicious in a comfortable home-cooked way, a superb kitchen is the only impediment in my mind to the number one position.
Although all accommodation at Lion Sands caters to the luxury market, suites in their River Lodge are much more affordable.
For more information go to Lion Sands Ivory Lodge, www.lionsands.com or call +27 (0) 11 484 9911.
