How to be "cool"?

Theories about “coolness” abound and conflict, but there is general agreement that “coolness” manifests itself as a “social distinction” and is “an elusive essence”.

According to the social distinction theory, “cool” is a zero sum game, in which “cool” exists only in comparison with things considered less “cool”. “Cool” is created out of a need for status and distinction.

The theory of elusive essence puts “cool” as a real, but unknowable property. In the New Yorker article, "The Coolhunt", cool is given three characteristics:

• "The act of discovering what's cool is what causes cool to move on."
  
• "Cool cannot be manufactured, only observed."
  
• "Cool can only be observed by those who are themselves cool."

A piece of Simpsons dialogue (from the episode Homerpalooza) embodies this dilemma:

Homer: So, I realised that being with my family is more important than being cool.
Bart: Dad, what you just said was powerfully uncool.
Homer: You know what the song says: "It's hip to be square."
Lisa: That song is so lame.
Homer: So lame that it's... cool?
Bart & Lisa: No.
Marge: Am I cool, kids?
Bart & Lisa: No.
Marge: Good. I'm glad. And that's what makes me cool, not caring, right?
Bart & Lisa: No.
Marge: Well, how the hell do you be cool? I feel like we've tried everything here.
Homer: Wait, Marge. Maybe if you're truly cool, you don't need to be told you're cool.
Bart: Well, sure you do.
Lisa: How else would you know?

Most agree that humans begin to seek social distinction through coolness at the onset of puberty. From about 12 to 15 years old, we transition from the freedom of prepuberty individualism to the constraints of the uniform of coolness.

This phenomenon sets up the next generation of pairing, and their icons of coolness separate and distinguish them from previous generations. In fact, that which made older generations cool fades into un-coolness or squareness in the minds of the new generation. History reveals a rich tapestry of iconography and attitude marking each generations' signs of coolness.

Most marketers are at least a few generations behind the current cutting edge of coolness, and hence often struggle to see how to engineer their brands to appeal to the ever-changing waves of each up and coming generation.

Each generation feels that cool is something pure and existential known only to them, that it was founded in their time by them. There is not one single concept because one of the main aspects of cool is its mutability. What is seen as cool will change from time to time, from place to place and from generation to generation. This is very important in our multicultural world and country of today.

Icons of coolness differ dramatically between social classes, language groups, regions, genders, religions and so forth. There is no one answer for what makes a brand cool at any point in time!

So, how do marketers address cool?

Open-mindedness, observation, immersion in the activities of teenagers and research all help generate the insights needed to make brands cool. What are teenagers doing? How are they speaking? What artifacts and interests do they aspire to own and interact with?

Great clues are given by the music listened to and fashions worn by teenagers. Since the commercial recording and distribution of popular music began some 100 years ago, the icons of coolness have been driven largely by the music of the day and the styles of dress worn by the artists in vogue at the time. This is no surprise when one considers the role dancing plays in bringing young people together in love.

If you are not listening to System of a Down, 30 Seconds to Mars or Rammstein, you are unlikely to click with the average Jo'burg Northern Suburbs teenage boy.

What currently makes South African teenagers cool?

Periodically at Bateleur Khanya we use our SA YouthTrend tracking survey to gauge what is currently driving “Being IN” and “Being OUT”. The most recent wave gleaned from a sample of n=1900 urban South Africans aged 12 to 15 years old yields a host of useful insights.

Here they are...

THE GADGETS YOU OWN AND WHAT YOU DO WITH THEM

Key to coolness is the cell phone carried. It must the latest technology, have a camera, a video recorder, a music player and a “cool” ring tone. It will be used for games (the younger), smsing and chat rooms (like mixit). Nokia, Samsung and Motorola all score over 80% in terms of being “in”, with LG and Sony Eriksson scoring in the 60%s. Don't be seen dead with a Panasonic, Sharp, Alcatel, Siemens, Sagem or Phillips! The brand of network operator you are connected to is of little importance.

MP3 players, iPod in particular, are vital, as well as the artists and style of music you listen to. R&B remains the most “in” genre across most segments, as does hip-hop. House and kwaito prevail as being cool amongst Black South Africa teenagers, especially in Gauteng. Rap, pop and (modern) rock define coolness amongst white teens. As religion is today a key driver to coolness for many teens, so gospel prevails as an “in” genre for many.

Don't let your friends discover disco, blues, classical, reggae, jazz, country, or rave on your iPod!

YOUR CHARACTER, PERSONALITY AND BEHAVIOUR

Great accent in terms of being cool is placed on who “you are on the inside” as opposed “how you look on the outside”. Social constraints brought about by AIDS and crime have rendered a current teenage generation who wants to know a person's mind over and above the body. This is in distinct contrast to the body beautiful glamour days of the disco 70's and its preceding free love generation of the 60's.

Cool personality characteristics are in fact quite conservative, including friendliness, respect, politeness, honesty and caring. Being mature and well bought up are cited as “in” character traits. Rudeness, crudeness, arrogance, one-upmanship and attention seeking are “out”.

YOUR CLOTHES AND HAIRSTYLE

Naturally clothing and hairstyle are strong drivers of coolness. Driven by music and popular artists, dress remains the most visible and varied iconography of coolness.

Cool clothes are still driven strongly by their branding. White boys like the action oriented brands like Nike, Billabong, Levis, Quicksilver and Diesel. White girls like fun brands like Roxy. Black teens favour brands that afford style and class like Lacoste and Carvella.

Whatever you wear, steer clear of Pep, Hang Ten (the cool brand of 1970!), Red, Allstar, RT and Hi-tech.

Brand is not all however. Teenagers can't always afford the brands they want, which is why such a huge market exists for cheaper clothes that are “fashionable”, “stylish” and “colourful”. What fashions, styles and colour are in? Go to the local mall and hang out ... and you will see! But be warned ... by the time you have implemented your strategy accordingly, they will have changed!

Hair has always been a big issue in coolness! And, with South Africa's diversity, there has evolved a wide range of cool options for your hair. Braids, spiky, dreadlocks, long and straight, dyed, shaved, pony tail, brush cut, s-curl, mohawk, wet look, tabletop, twig, blow, peacock, switch, tong, straight back, bob cut, fade and corn rows start the ball rolling ... better talk to a few hairstylists!

YOUR BODY AND STATURE

Notwithstanding the importance of a “nice mind”, body and looks are of course also very important drivers of cool.

In general muscles are NOT in. The Charles Atlas icon is dead. Don't try to be macho, big, sporty, meaty or any other such 1950s aspiration. Makeup, long nails, tattoos and piercing are also out of date.

Slim, fit-looking, tall, toned, smiling, clean-cut with connecting eyes are how current teens describe the “in” body and stature.

Pretty faces, alluring lips and fine legs put girls into the “in” category. Some things don't change! Being overly voluptuous is “out”, as is chubbiness.

YOUR FANTASIES AND ASPIRATIONS

Being young is all about looking ahead. Your dreams and vision for the future mould perceptions about your coolness (or lack thereof).

Aspirations of the current generation of teens are grand and materialistic. Topped by “owning an expensive car”, aspirations go on to “being a millionaire” (especially in Gauteng), “traveling the world”, “being famous”, “owning a business (especially in Gauteng), “being well educated”, “getting a great job” and “owning a large house” all lie ahead for the up and coming.

Careers aspired to include, medicine, marketing and IT. Indications are that there will be a dire shortage of teachers, nurses, security personnel and game rangers in the future, as indicated by their distinct “un-coolness” as professions.

YOUR FEARS

Underlying these aspirations are a myriad of fears worrying the teens of today. This is in contrast to the “what, me worry?” generations of the 60's and 70's.

Key fears are death through crime (more so amongst Gauteng Whites), drugs, AIDS (more so amongst Gauteng Blacks) and poverty.


10 TIPS TO MARKETERS ON HOW TO STAY IN TOUCH

1. Go out and keep your eyes open.
   
2. Make notes.
   
3. Talk to teenagers of all walks of life at every possibility.
   
4. Follow popular music and fashion
   
5. Conduct regular research.
   
6. Don't listen to purveyors of sensation and the extreme (and other soothsayers). Most teens are quite down to earth.
   
7. Believe in your intuition (you were there once, you know the drill!)
   
8. Subscribe to a few current chat rooms ... and chat.
   
9. Appoint brand managers who themselves have teenage children.
   
10. Read between the lines ... ask why rather than what drives coolness.

Sources:
Bateleur Khanya's “SA YouthTrend” Teen Tracking Survey
Wikipedia