For winter, the walls adopted burnt orange tones and became displays for rows upon rows of brown "Flavour Intense" laboratory bottles. Erasmus developed these compounds - with enticing names like black dukkah and Kashmiri chai - during his alchemist's quest for the perfect blend of scent and taste. And, like his opulent Gold Collection of handmade crockery and tableware, they're for sale in case you'd like to tickle your senses at home.
Much like the modern space itself, the menu changes with the seasons but maintains its elegant simplicity. And even though all the food and drinks fit onto a single page, the range of dishes makes it clear that Hemelhuijs is best experienced over several visits at different times of the day, all the while dreaming of what you'll discover next.
For breakfast, you could opt for freshly (and loudly) squeezed juice served in a vase. I enjoyed the kick of the apple, celery, and ginger while my friend liked the balance of the apple, beetroot, and orange. To eat, you could go for something simple like soft mieliepap with orange blossom honey or something indulgent like breakfast beer waffles with homemade Genoa figs.
For brunch, try a smoothie (quince, honey, and yoghurt or banana with bergamot lemon and coconut milk) with an open sandwich on lightly toasted bread. My friend, bless his vegan heart, opted for the Moroccan humus with onion marmalade and avocado, although I was more than happy to have a bite (or three) to taste why he couldn't get enough.
For lunch, as you sip on cool cocktails like pink gin with ruby grapefruit and tonic or delicate quince with Prosecco, I'd recommend one of the many winter salads. I especially enjoyed the slow-roasted duck with young beetroot, winter fruit, and sesame nougatine, while my friend was crazy about his shaved red cabbage with orange and medjool dates.
If you're having your salad as a starter rather than a full meal, there are several other options to savour. And while I was a bit disappointed that the pan-fried veal wasn't available on the afternoon we were there, the quince cotignac and chestnut rolled free range chicken was a good second choice.
For dessert (assuming you have time before they close or space after your meal), go for something warm like 70% dark couverture hot chocolate or tonka bean white hot chocolate with whiskey. You could also do as I did and have one of the pastries or cakes to go. Such buttery bliss is best enjoyed at your leisure (and best kept a secret from your personal trainer).
It's hard to do justice in describing flavours that are so unique. And so perhaps the best option is to arrive when it opens and spend the day to experience it for yourself. When the food's this good, you might as well make a meal of it!
Hemelhuijs, located at 71 Waterkant Street, Cape Town, is open on weekdays from 9am to 4pm and on Saturdays from 9am to 3pm. The average price of a main meal is R90, but further discounts are available as a member of Entertainer Cape Town. Call +27 (0)21 418 2042, email az.oc.sjiuhlemeh@ofni or go to www.hemelhuijs.co.za for more.
